Martin Rees, Jeweller and Pawnbroker

Diamonds

A good quality diamond seen through the microscope

Note the colours, the diamond is like a prism (the effect is called fire).  Look for flaws mostly in the top left.  One is clearly visible near the centre Click here for larger image, opens in a new tab.

An uncut diamond, as it comes from the mine

In brief

Diamonds are crystalised carbon.

Graphite (the lead in pencils) is also crystalised carbon, but a different crystal form.

Diamonds will burn (please don't try this at home!)

A diamond was believed to protect the wearer from the Devil, as well as the Plague.

Index

Introduction

Diamonds are very hard, but like many other gemstones they are somewhat brittle, so a violent blow can crack or chip the stone.  We see many old rings, and often the diamonds are damaged.

Over 120 miles (200km) below the earth's surface and upto 3 billion years ago, temperatures of 1100C and the incredible pressure of 65,000 atmospheres allowed diamonds to form.  Aeons later, rocks like Kimberlite transported these precious stones towards the surface.
Diamonds are (as we all know) the hardest natural substance, so can be used for cutting any material;  they were used to cut the intricate marble designs on the Taj Mahal.
When I first became interested in jewellery, I did not appreciate diamonds.  However admiring their beauty under the microscope, and seeing these various inclusions and the beauty of their crystal structure has resulted in my coming to regard them among the very best of gems.

Lab grown diamonds

Diamond lab grown test result With a special lighbox and an app on a phone with a good camera, we can identify lab-grown diamonds
Top A natural diamond looks blue.
Centre A lab grown cvd diamond is green
Bottom A labgrown hpht diamond is red, this is the earlier type of synthetic diamond

They are a lot cheaper than natural diamonds.   The high price of natural stones shows that most customers prefer them.
If you're buying second hand, watch out.  We've been approached several times by owners wanting to sell rings with lab grown diamonds, so they really are a risk if you're buying.
Some sellers do not state the diamonds are natural, perhaps they don't test the stones.  We test most diamonds, and include a message on our online shop that the stones are natural (or lab grown if that's the case). If you're in our shop, ask and we can check for you.  Normally lab grown diamonds are clearly labelled.

Cutting and Shaping Diamonds

Their hardness makes cutting the facets, which cause the sparkle and fire, very difficult.  Faceted stones have only been around a few hundred years.  Finally in 1919 scientists worked out how to maximise the sparkle and fire by cutting the facets at the perfect antle.
Diamonds can only be cut or polished by another diamond.  This works because diamonds are harder at some angles than others - a result of the crystal structure.  Before cutting, the craftsman will ensure that no facets lie along this line of maximum hardness - because these would be impossible to cut or polish.  Provided that particular angle is avoided some of the diamond dust used for cutting and polishing will be harder than the diamond which is being worked on.
Diamonds may look clear but actually they have varying tints from blue white towards brown.  Blue white commands the highest price. Coloured stones do occur, and if attractive are very valuable.  Most diamonds are too flawed to be worn as jewellery and are used in industry for cutting and grinding.

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Diamond with garnet inclusion

Diamond with garnet crystal inclsions.   Click here for larger image

Inclusions and Flaws

diamond with interesting black inclusion

Many fascinating inclusions are found in diamonds, including garnet crystals.  The clarity of the diamond means these inclusions really look superb.  Sadly the most common are dull black spots, often called carbon, but more often actually sulphide as in the picture
This is a rather attractive black spot, which I call 'The bee.'  Luckily it's so small it doesn't spoil this stone.  Many diamonds have larger black inclusions (and less fascinating shapes), which reduce the stone's value.  Fractures are also common;  if they are small, the stone is not weakened.
In the best stones flaws are only visible through a powerful lens, in cheap stones you will see them with the naked eye.  So the price for a blue white stone which looks clear to the naked eye will be many times more than the price for a yellowish stone with black spots!

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Cleaning diamonds

Cleaning is simple - they won't be affected by hot water.  Make sure the back of the stones is kept clean, use a proprietary jewellery cleaner or a detergent, but not soap - diamonds attract grease and fats, and most soap contains some fat.  While you can clean the stone for yourself, we recommend you get a jeweller to clean and examine your diamond jewellery every year.  Replacing a diamond is expensive, so it makes sense to have your jewellery checked to ensure the stones are secure.

Treated Stones

Almost all diamonds are sold in their natural state.  But diamonds can be 'clarity enhanced' by filling a fracture to conceal it.  Also black spots can be removed by using a laser to drill into them, then bleaching the mark.  However these treatments may not be permanent.  Fracture filling can deteriorate with time, and repairers have encountered problems with laser-drilled stones.  Stones can be 'colour enhanced' by coating with a substance which hides an unacceptable colour tint.  The treatment is not permanent.
You can buy with confidence in the UK, because the law requires that you are notified before purchase of any such treatment.  As a result, few 'enhanced' diamonds are sold;  but it is wise to buy from reputable dealers.

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How much is a diamond worth

Price depends on many factors.
First there is the weight, larger stones are [obviously] worth more.  But quality is even more important than weight.
Inclusions can really spoil a large stone and make it look dull.  What about the cutting of the facets?  If the angles are wrong, much less light will be refracted within the stone, and it will have less fire.
Finally consider the colour.  Some stones look yellowish when compared to good diamonds.  They look disappointing, and that will bring their value down a lot.

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